The Ring of Kerry

Last weekend we loaded in the car and trekked across the whole of Ireland for Killarney and the famous Ring of Kerry. Ireland does not have the interstate system of the US so even the most direct route quickly took us off of dual carriage way and onto the smaller two-way roads . We drove for about four and a half hours passing through small towns like Kildare and New Castle and skirting the large cities like Limerick. When we arrived in Killarney we quickly found our way to the small private Killeen House Hotel where we would stay. This hotel turned out to be one of the most enjoyable on our stay in Europe rivaling the Garda Garden Hotel in Italy. When we entered the hotel we were instantly greeted by Geraldine our hostess (and owner). After helping us to settle in our room she immediately asked about the drive from Dublin, quizzed the kids on their adventures in Ireland and made sure we knew the upcoming weather and all the best sites. After a small rest (and a quick Pint) we headed off to the nearby Dingle Peninsula. The plan was to drive along the coast and enjoy the scenery however the weather was not cooperating and the visibility non existent, so we spent the evening walking through the scenic fishing town of Dingle. We walked up and down the streets, browsed through the shops and looked at the fishing boats. On the drive back we stopped at inch beach and braved the surly weather as the kids waded into the surf. We went back to the hotel early to get a good nights rest so we could get an early start in the morning.

The next day we slept longer than planned as the weather was still looking ominous. We started our day with a great home cooked breakfast in the hotel, checked out and bid farewell to our gracious hosts.They could not believe we were going to drive the entire ring of Kerry and then back to Dublin! We took off with high hopes; as we started the drive about 15 minutes into the drive we noticed a break in the clouds, then another, then a patch of sun and before you knew the skies had cleared and the sunny was shining brightly – great weather again!! The Ring of Kerry follows route N-70 along the west coast of Ireland, it truly is a special drive. We stopped at many of the pullouts and gazed across the ocean and enjoyed the scenic vistas. The coastline is filled with beaches, cliffs coves and all kinds of interesting scenes. We drove through picturesque costal towns like Killorgin and Glenbiegh, , from there we diverted off to the Ring of Skelligs for the impressive cliffs of Kerry and the old smugglers port town of Portmagee. We stopped overlooking the Islands of Skellig and beautiful beaches for picnic lunch. We rejoined the main ring at Waterville and visited a local craft shop and finished our souvenir hunting. From Waterville we drove through Coomakesta pass, we stopped at the top to take in the view but could barely stand in face of the fantastic winds blowing across the top. From there it was on past Derrynane House and through the beautiful tourist town of Kenmare. We then passed Molls gap and stopped again in Killarney National park and walked past beautiful forest and mountain lakes. After one final stop at the stately Muckross house we were ready to head back to Dublin. I looked down at my watch and it was already 7:00pm! It’s hard to judge time in the summer in Ireland as the sun sets after 10:00pm and it stays light past 11:00pm! In any case we gased up grabbed MacDonald’s and journeyed home. We rolled into Dublin just past 11:00p and to out surprise the roads were soaked – while we had enjoyed a beautiful sunny day on the west coast it remained stormy and overcast in the east!

As we have found all the countryside in Ireland the Ring of Kerry was a delight. Decidedly different from the majestic Rockies with commanding peaks the scenery here is more lush, green and serene. We can’t wait to get back to camping and hiking in Colorado but will always have warm memories of the Emerald Island. See More!!

Brussels and Amsterdam

We traveled to Belgium to stop in Brussels and head off to Amsterdam. Brussels was just that a quick stop off. We arrived in the evening took a cab to our hotel and were up early in the morning and on the tram headed toward the City Centre and in search of the “Grand Place”. Walking through the older part of town it’s easy to notice the distinctive gilded Belgian architecture. When we arrived at the Grand Place which is said to be one of the most spectacular squares in Europe it was easy to see why. The square is huge although there was a Jazz festival setting up when we were there so it was hard to get the full effect. In any regard the surrounding buildings, churches and shops were very picturesque. We walked through the surrounding area sampling chocolate from the fountains and of course trying the waffles. From there it was up through the park and back to the Midi train station where we hopped our ride to Amsterdam.

The train ride to Amsterdam was fine and passed through Antwerp, Haag and Rotterdam (which seems very nice) and was highlighted by windmills which dotted the landscape in Holland. I always find it interesting to see what the first impression will be when emerging from the train stations in a new city. In Amsterdam it can be summed up in one word – bikes! Just as you leave the train station there is an enormous multi-level parking garage just bursting at the seams with bikes. Anyone who has been to Amsterdam will tell you that it’s a bike culture but as with many things on our travels, you have to see it to believe it. Bikes are by far the most common mode of transportation, as such they have there own lanes and traffic signals and you need to be sure you look both ways before crossing them.

Once through the crowds of Centraal Station we followed the Singel canal and walked to our hotel just on the edge of the City Center. The walk was about 40 minutes and allowed us to immediately get the feel of the city. If one is interested in an “Boulder-Style” urban scene this has to be the hippest around. The city is filled which shops, bars, and café’s that serve more than just coffee (marijuana is legal here but reportedly only for the locals). Street performers abound and everywhere you turn people are congregating and enjoying the ‘vibe’. As we explored the city over the next two days we found traditional shopping areas and chic boutiques catering to every style. From the Singel flower markets to the designer shops in Dam square Amsterdam seems to have something for every taste.

While we were there we hit all the typical tourist spots. We toured the canals by foot and by boat crossing this bridge and that and taking in the sights and architecture. We happened by a cool outdoor photography exhibit and continued our preference for outdoor café dining. We of course visited the Anne Frank house, while interesting it was a bit of a disappointment given its no longer furnished/set up in it’s original format. This combined with the throngs of people filling the tiny rooms made it difficult to imagine the environment. Still to see the bookcase which covered the entry to their hiding place and get a feeling for the compact accommodations gives a haunting feeling of what the Franks and their friend must have endured for two long years.

All and all Brussels and Amsterdam was a great visit even though we covered alot of ground in a few short days. I think this trip gave us a glimpse of what it is like to tour Europe by backpack moving quickly from place to place. That is ever changing but ever tiring as well. More Picts as always -- Brussels and Amsterdam.